Lawrence App: hiking the Appalachain Trail 2011

More updates to come

2011-11-06T16:22:00.001-08:00

For any of you following my journey, I apologize for the lack of recent posts. Even with the iPhone it's been sparce opportunities to upload info.
I'll be catching up the next few days so stay tuned. I also have some fine hi-rez photos from my new camera that I'll be sharing. Thanks for your support and God bless.

Front Royal, VA

2011-11-06T06:44:00.001-08:00

I made it into Front Royal on Wed eve 10/26. I had the good fortune of hitching a ride with the second car passing me on 522. Good thing: my feet were pretty ground up from all the rocky trail in the north end of SNP. Had a slight knee strain coming down Marys Rock in the wet leaves too, so I wad ready for a break.
Took a "zero" on Thurs and was feeling pretty good to head back out Friday when I heard report of a winterstorm warning. Hmmm... Not good.

Shenandoah National Park

2011-11-06T06:39:00.001-08:00

The AT runs for a liitle over 100 miles in Shenandoah NP. It's a beautiful, wildly diverse section. Some areas like Big Meadows, Skyland, and Loft Mtn. are high traffic areas where the trail is almost manicured to perfection for those tenderfoots :) But other sections have an almost wilderness feel to them and I might only see 1 or 2 people over many hours. A lot of SNP is old, broken up granite which makes for tedious and grinding hiking. But there's always the omnipresent Skyline Drive which the AT crosses numerous times. The upside of that is many food opportunities at the waysides and campstores. I don't think I wad hurting for calories that week.
Also, saw a lot of bears some of whom were quite unafraid. Not a good thing.

Shenandoah Homecoming

2011-10-24T18:53:00.001-07:00

As of today I'm about 2/3s through Shenandoah NP. Had a few beautiful days of cool hiking weather. Some of the trail is very smooth (some not) and there aren't the big ups and downs of last week. So my mileage is up. Had a couple 20+ days in a row.
Being in the middle of the park, around Stony Man, Hawksbill, and Old Rag is like a homecoming for me. My brother and I used to hike these trails a lot back in the 70s.
But a wicked rain and hail storm blew in unexpectedly out of the west and chased me inside Skyland. Thank god for dryness.

Waynesboro nice.

2011-10-24T18:45:00.001-07:00

Posting somewhat belatedly--no cell service. Made a town stop and took a zero day in Waynesboro, VA last Thursday. I was pleasantly surprised at the nice downtown area which seemed very hiker-friendly. There's a great outfitter (Rockfish Gap Outfitters) on US 250. Many thanks to Chuck and Ty for straightening out some gear problems.
I was also impressed with Stone Soup, a local bookstore/cafe. Plenty to eat around town and a really killer produce market. Ah, town...but this is about hiking.

Onward to Waynesboro

2011-10-21T06:40:00.001-07:00

The section from the James River north to Waynesboro VA (78 mi) proved to be a lot wilder and more difficult than I expected. It included three big uphill climbs (approx 3000') in four days and passed through three Wilderness Areas including The Priest and Three Ridges.
I was able to increase my mileage to the high teens, even hitting 20 mi one day. But the warm weather took it out of me. Hydration was an issue and water sources still unreliable at times. Saw some absolutely beautiful country.
Unfortunately, this section ended like the last--in the rain. I was really grateful for a town stop in Waynesboro to regroup. And eat.

The James River

2011-10-14T07:58:00.000-07:00

I finally reached the James River crossing by Thursday afternoon after much rain and a steep downhill. The James River footbridge is the longest pedestrian only bridge on the AT and spans almost 700 ft. across this beautiful gorge.
I was very grateful to find my truck waiting for me and planned to drive into Lynchburg to regroup at my aunt's house for a day. Of course, nothing ever goes according to plan. I'd left my lights on and run the truck battery down and with no cell service in the gorge, things didn't look very good. But I was able to get a jump start pretty quickly and head off to a much needed town break.

Rain Rain Rain

2011-10-14T07:46:00.000-07:00

The first couple days heading out of Daleville this week were pretty good but I knew there was rain ahead. By Wednesday, steady mist had turned to heavy rains--2-3 inches--and made hiking especially difficult. The 17 mi I did Wed between Cove Mt. Shelter and Thunder Hill Shelter included 3000' of uphill and was very tough. Rains continued into Thursday soaking everything including me and my gear.
Ironically, we went from very dry conditions the week before--lots of dried up creek beds--to swollen, raging streams. Yesterday I had my first (unplanned) fording of a stream at Matt's Creek on the AT. If you look closely at the white blazes you can see that crossing this stream at the usual AT crossing would have been tricky at best. So I had to slosh through at another spot.

My Old Kentucky Friends

2011-10-14T07:28:00.001-07:00

I really enjoy meeting some of the amazing fellow travelers on the AT. My first week out I was fortunate to hook up with these three hikers from Lexington KY. Dave, Brian, and Cisco have hiked the first 700 mi of the AT over several years in week long segments.
They graciously allowed me to tag along for the better part of the week since we were hiking at about the same pace. I appreciated their helpfulness and good-natured humor, especially since my first week out was a struggle.
And, as an example of the good will that often characterizes AT hikers, they left me one of their hiking poles in Catawba to replace the one I'd broken a few days earlier. God bless you guys and hope to see you again.

Trout Stream

2011-10-14T07:24:00.000-07:00

Some pictures just say it all.

Tinker Cliffs

2011-10-14T07:17:00.001-07:00

Another beautiful spot along the section of AT between Catawba and Daleville is Tinker Cliffs. I have two views of this long rock outcropping, one from above and one from the valley below. It was a gorgeous Fall day for a visit here during my 20 mi. slackpack.

McAfee Knob

2011-10-10T04:12:00.001-07:00

Yesterday (Sunday), I slackpacked the 20 miles from Catawba to Daleville to make up for lost time. Over the stretch I passed Tinker Cliffs and McAfee Knob (show in this pic), purportedly one of the most photographed spots on the AT. You can see why. Especially on a crisp Fall morning like yesterday it's just spectacular.

Mt. Catawba, mile 700 on the AT

2011-10-10T03:58:00.000-07:00

At the point where the AT crosses VA 311 just south of Catawba VA, is mile 700 of the trail. It's a popular trailhead for section hikers and day hikers alike. It's also about 1/3 of the total distance of the AT, a humbling fact indeed.

The Home Place

2011-10-09T18:51:00.001-07:00

At least there is a reward for all that hard work traversing Dragons Tooth and the rest of the AT. In the little town of Catawba VA sits The Home Place restaurant, in business since 1982. It's food is famous in hiker lore. Good southern cookin, all-you-can eat 3 meats and sides. Load her up!!
Best country food I've had since my grandma Eve.

The Dragon's Tooth

2011-10-09T18:44:00.000-07:00

One of the more challenging spots on this section of AT is the climb over "Dragon's Tooth," a jagged granite outcropping. Much of the trail requires hand over hand climbing, scooting along on your butt, and use of the rebar ladders built into the rock. Not so much fun with a 40+ lb. pack on.

In fact, a hiker was severely injured last Sunday by a fall on Dragon's Tooth. There are some nice views indeed but I wonder if the danger is worth it. I was just glad to get down off this thing.

Virginia Meadows

2011-10-08T19:54:00.001-07:00

In between ridge walks are many beautiful isolated valleys, some wooded and others turned for agriculture. These shots were from Wednesday after the weather turned into Indian Summer.

Even though the field walks were hot, I found a sylvan spot beside Sinking Creek for lunch break. Cold stream water for burning feet and a quiet patch to sit. A rare pastoral moment on an otherwise taxing hike.

Owee!!

2011-10-08T07:04:00.000-07:00

Well, did I mention that the trail is really rocky and treacherous in places?

Third day out, a wet and chilly morning. Hiking through a couple miles of trail composed of granite rocks 6"-2' in diameter. Rocks glistening florescent green with moss freshly dampened by rain. BOOM!
Fell on my ass even while taking great caution.
I knew it was pretty bad--snapped one of my hiking poles in half (and they can take some abuse). My right forearm and right thigh took most of the blow. I was just glad I didn't break my arm, hit my head, or tear my rainjacket.

I guess it's good I didn't know how bad it really was or I might not have hiked on another 3 days. When I got to a motel last night and could see myself in a mirror...YIKES! As you can see, my whole right forearm is a bruise. And I have a bruise 6" x 2" on my thigh. Hiking is not all fun and games.

Jefferson National Forest

2011-10-08T06:46:00.000-07:00

The hike out from Pearisburg goes into the Jefferson National Forest, a beautiful and remote area along the Virginia/West Virginia border. There's a lot on long ridge walks punctuated by steep, U-shaped valleys. Some parts of the At are smooth and well-designed, while others are really rough. Many of the ridges are composed of broken rock granite spines that make hiking tedious at best. And these Roanoke ATC maintainers need to learn how to build a switchback :) My body has the scars and aches to prove it.

The weather after the first day was chilly and wet--highs only around 40º on the ridges. But by Wednesday the sun was out and temps were at least 20º higher. Water sources remain a problem in the south. Many days hiking were determined by available water, sometimes over 10 miles between.

This Is Why We Hike

2011-10-07T19:26:00.000-07:00

Started out from Pearisburg VA on Sun 10/2 on a chilly afternoon. There had been snow flurries the previous night, but as you can see from this view the weather cleared beautifully. The first climb of 1800' didn't seem too bad (thank God) and the reward was a gorgeous 12-13 mile ridge walk along the Peters Mountain Wilderness.

It's that time again...

2011-09-24T19:14:00.000-07:00

Hello friends,
Fall is in the air and that could mean only one thing--time to do some hiking. I've been training for the past month plus, getting ready for another Appalachian Trail adventure. Had to miss last year--2010--due to some personal issues, but I'm rearin' to go in 2011. Please stay tuned for further updates and news from the Trail. My EDT is next Sunday, Oct 02.

Young Buck near Grayson Highlands

2009-10-15T19:27:00.000-07:00

This young buck living in the protected areas of Mt Rodgers/Grayson Highlands obviously was not very frightened by our human presence. We saw many deer during our hike but most were quite shy (wisely so).

Mt Rodgers Nat'l Park

2009-10-15T19:19:00.000-07:00

The weather finally cleared but turned windy and cold when we reached Mt. Rodgers (5782') State Park. Most of the area is high balds with great visibility on a day like this. By night though, the temps at Thomas Knob Shelter dropped to 30º with winds howling at 35 mph or better. Brrr...

2009-09-25T14:05:00.000-07:00

On Thursday we finally left Tennessee and crossed into Virginia here at the Mt Rodgers State Rec Area sign. Another state down. Yeah! But VA has the most AT mileage of any state, so I'll be here a while. On to Damascus!

Reaching the 400 mile mark

2009-09-25T13:56:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, we passed the 400 mile mark on the AT just before Laurel Fork. This of course, is my cumulative mileage picking up from last year at Erwin, TN. Another nice feature of the day was the sunshine. Yay!

Jones Falls

2009-09-25T09:56:00.000-07:00

One of the highlights of the new AT relo north of US 19E, is the side trail to Jones Falls. The video says it all.

Drying Off in Roan Mountain

2009-09-25T09:47:00.000-07:00

After 4 days of wet weather, Harry and I were ready to dry out and clean up. We were pleasantly surprised to find the Mountain Harbor hostel just off the AT on 19E. Very nice property and facilities run by Terry and Mary. Had a killer feast at King the Road right up 19E. Just what the trail doctor ordered.

The Trail Maintainers

2009-09-25T09:36:00.001-07:00

Here you get a better view of Overmountain shelter, but more interestingly, we ran into the crew of trail maintainers working on this section of the AT. Harry and I noticed the great work they've been doing with relocations all the way from Unaka Mtn. to north of Watauga Lake. Especially refreshing was the relo north of US 19E to Dennis Cove. What a beautiful hike! Our hats our off to these men and women performing such difficult and vital work. This day, the AT crew was striking camp due to bad weather--not a good omen for us hikers.

Overmountain Shelter

2009-09-25T09:20:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of posts over the first week or so of the hike. The wet weather has forced us to keep our toys safely stowed, so we have very little photo or video documentation of our climb over the spectacular Roan Highlands. Here, on day 4, we stopped at the famous "barn", aka Overmountain Shelter for a water break. Sadly, the fog has obscured this view a bit as it did during our trek over 6200' Roan Mtn., but even a rainy day on the AT is heavenly.

Arriving at Damascus, VA 9/24/09

2009-09-24T12:51:00.001-07:00

Alright! 10 days and 120 miles into our hike, Harry and I reached Damascus on a warm, late summer afternoon. The ridge walk from Hampton was beautiful but we're really ready to cool our heels (literally) with some icy beverages and salads. Damascus looks pretty quiet today, but sounds like people coming in tomorrow for the weekend. I think it's good timing for a day of rest.

Starting Out Sept 15th at Erwin TN

2009-09-20T17:10:00.000-07:00

And so it began--Harry and I suited up at Uncle Johnny's
Nolichucky Inn on Tuesday and headed out on a nice late summer morning. Even with some training and trail experience behind us, this first section of AT is notoriously difficult and beautiful. Whatever lies ahead we're both really excited and grateful to be on the trail again.

It's That Time Again

2009-09-10T18:56:00.000-07:00

I know it's been a while, but Fall is in the air and that means time to hit the trail again. I'm planning on heading out next Tuesday, Sept 15th for a month, resuming where I left off last year. I'm hoping to make it from Erwin, TN to central Virginia near Roanoke. As a special bonus feature, my good friend Harry "Zen Pig" Siegal will be joining me for the fun.

I've been training for several weeks (though not as much as I'd like) and trying to find ways in Florida to simulate the rigors of hiking the southern Appalachians. I think once we get past Roan Mtn. it will ease a bit. Probably won't post as much video this time, but I hope to give you some good moments on the blog. Until then, wish us luck.

2008-11-24T19:48:00.000-08:00

A group of happy hikers on a chilly morning at Icewater Springs shelter in the Great Smokies. Thanks to Ben for the photo. This was the morning after my first 20+ mile day. Feeling really good.

Getting Cold Out There

2008-11-18T10:05:00.000-08:00

As much as I miss the trail already, it was probably good timing to finish a hike. It was rainy and cool the last few days I was out and went downhill from there. Lots of rain last weekend, mixed with snow at high elevations, and now bitter cold this week (probably single digits at night up high). Brrrrr...I'm a wuss when it comes to that stuff. As you can see from this picture taken a week ago from Little Bald, it's an early winter on the AT.

Epilogue: Thoughts on a Fall Hike

2008-11-15T18:09:00.000-08:00

After all the preparations and planning, it's hard to believe the hike is already over. It's hard to briefly summarize such an experience but I've shared a few thoughts in this vid. I hope this blog hasn't spilled over into narcissism or solipsism. I really just wanted to share some of the beautiful scenery and experiences with friends who aren't fortunate enough to be there in person. And I also hope my experience encourages all of you to go for your dreams. Even if you think you're too old, too fat, too broke, too scared, too broken, too whatever, start by taking the baby steps that lead to your dreams. Life is just too short.

Even though the hiking is over, check back from time to time. I have several things to post about the AT, wilderness preservation, and environmental issues related to the trail. And there's always another season of hiking ahead. Thanks all.

The Finale, Thursday Nov 13

2008-11-14T20:23:00.000-08:00

So, with little fanfare, I walked into Uncle Johnny's Hostel at the Chestoa Bridge around 5:20 PM. I've walked 340 miles in 27 days (plus 3 rest days) and it's been fantastic. My dear friend and mentor, Zen Pig, drove out to pick me up and greeted me with dry clothes, some OJ, and an iced coffee. On the drive back to Asheville we reflected on the transformational experience of hiking the AT. And then? Of course celebrated with a dinner at Salsa. If you gotta be civilized, that's not so bad.

Nolichucky River Gorge, final descent to Erwin Nov 13

2008-11-14T20:17:00.000-08:00

This is the last trail video, standing on the ridge above the Nolichucky River, my destination. With the rains stopped and mostly downhill hiking, I felt great. Managed to do the 68 miles from Hot Springs in 4 days and really the only day that was rough was the 18-miler over Hogback and Big Bald. It's hard to believe my journey's almost over--I feel like I could just hike on.

Dr Pepper says hello

2008-11-14T20:12:00.000-08:00

Making our way down the last ridgeline, Doc and I pause to check out the fog layer below us. Mercifully, the rains lasted only a couple hours, though hiking with wet feet tears them up in short time.

The Last Day, Big Bald Shelter, Nov 13

2008-11-14T20:03:00.000-08:00

Sure enough, my last day started off in a rainstorm on top of Big Bald. I shared the shelter with Dr. Pepper and 4 other thru-hikers. The difference between thru-hikers and weekenders is amazing. When hiking is your business, it cuts out a lot of the unecessary crap at the shelters: gear stowed, camp clean (no food), quiet early. And even though there's a lot of joking around, these guys are serious hikers. At 17 miles a day, I'm just a lightweight. One hiker, "G-Man" works as a geologist at the South Pole (for real, Antarctica) and has hiked the AT, PCT, CDT and other shorter trails multiple times. I want his job :)

Don't try this at home!

2008-11-14T19:56:00.000-08:00

I finally reached the top of Big Bald late in the day Wednesday. What a grind! Not only was I beat from a lot of uphill miles, but the weather was definitely falling apart. The winds at the summit were strong enough to blow me off the trail several times, gusting over 60 mi/hr. And chiiiiileee! I ended up hiking after dark by headlamp to reach the shelter and, man, it was a welcome sight.

view of Big Bald, Nov 12

2008-11-14T19:48:00.000-08:00

I've reached this spot before on many day hikes, but it's a little different chugging up that grade with a full pack. You can see Big Bald Mtn. (5512') in the background, the highest point in this area with a great view. Unfortunately this section of trail borders on Wolf Laurel, a massive development with ski slopes and airplane runway. It's shameful how developers bully their way into ruining one of the formerly most beautiful, pristine views on the AT. They've already had to re-route the AT to avoid this mess. Shame, shame.

A Wintery Day on Hogback Ridge, Nov 12

2008-11-14T19:41:00.000-08:00

Whew! After a brutal climb (1600' in 3 miles) I was pretty overheated until I reached the ridgeline and was smacked by cold, cold winds. The weather is definitely pretty threatening, and the day's 18+ mile hike is tough. Between Hogback Ridge and Big Bald there's a net elevation gain of 4000 feet. Ooof. The bonus is the wild apples, quite tasty.

Passing The 300 Mile Mark on the AT, Tue Nov 11

2008-11-14T19:32:00.000-08:00

Yes, on Tuesday afternoon I passed the 300 mile mark right around the summit of Big Butt Mtn. in Tennessee. I must have my trail legs by now because I'm pretty consistently cranking out 16-18 mile days. After hiking solo most of the trip, I caught up to one of the few other northbounders, "Dr. Pepper" (trail name), in Hot Springs. We're hiking together to Erwin and it's good to have some company, especially since the weather is getting more difficult.

Rich Mt tower

2008-11-14T19:24:00.000-08:00

After crossing Tanyard Gap north of Hot Springs, the AT makes a long up to Rich Mountain. The old fire tower is kinda blown out, but still has a great view. By Monday, the mild weather had turned more seasonal with clear skies, brisk winds, and cool temps. Absolutely great hiking weather in the mid-40s. In this last stretch, I need to average 17 miles a day to make Erwin by Thursday.

Leaving Hot Springs Nov 10

2008-11-14T15:26:00.000-08:00

Even though the AT makes a sharp climb out of Hot Springs, rising out of the French Broad River gorge, it's a great piece of trail thanks to the views. About 800' above the river is a rock outcropping known as "Lover's Leap" that offers the great view seen here.

Bonus Round!!

2008-11-09T15:30:00.000-08:00

Well, I scheduled myself off until Nov. 15th to hike, so even though I reached my initial destination--Hot Springs--I'm ahead of schedule. Sooooo, what to do? Hike on brother! I decided to put in a few more days and do the 67 miles to Erwin, TN. Hopefully the weather will hold out. More to come. . .

Elmer's Sunnybank Inn, Hot Springs

2008-11-09T15:26:00.000-08:00

It's a pretty sweet hang at Sunnybank. The Victorian structure has been a guest house for generations and a famous hiker hangout since Earl Schaeffer stayed there during his 1948 thru-hike. Elmer has a great library and cooks gourmet vegetarian meals. What an oasis on the AT!

US25 Bridge over The French Broad River

2008-11-09T15:22:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite spots. But the French Broad is sooooooo low. It's really scary. As much as I hate hiking in the rain, we sure need it. The AT goes up the hill on the left to a rock outcropping called Lover's Leap.

Quick tour of downtown Hot Springs, 11/9

2008-11-09T15:17:00.000-08:00

Well, downtown may be stretching it--it's only about 3 blocks long. But Bluff Mountain Outfitters ROCKS. Dan and Tom have a great selection of groceries and gear--better than a lot of the big boys. And thank to Tom for info about water sources ahead on the trail.

Sunset at Snowbird

2008-11-08T16:27:00.000-08:00

Ah, another incredible panorama.

Thank God for my little blue house

2008-11-08T16:21:00.000-08:00

After so many nights in AT shelters, it was a great relief to be back out camping in my tent. The shelters are great for cover, especially in bad weather, but they can be dirty, crowded, and almost always infested with pesky little rodents. Sleeping under the quiet of the stars, moon, and giant pines was one of the best nights I've had in weeks.

View of Max patch, Nov 7th

2008-11-08T16:08:00.000-08:00

Max Patch Bald is another favorite spot on the AT, easily accessible from both the trail and by car. It has a great view of both the Smokies to the south and the Blacks off to the east. On a sunny day like yesterday it's a great place for lunch.

Tour of Standing Bear Hostel

2008-11-08T15:56:00.000-08:00

Zen Pig and I took a walking tour of Standing Bear Farm, just 3 miles north of the Smokies. It's a great hiker set-up, with proprietor Curtis Owen and Rockhound making sure all the essentials are there. It's a great place to stopover before or after the long hike through GSMNP.

I'm in Hot Springs, Sat Nov 8th

2008-11-08T15:48:00.000-08:00

I can't believe it! I came in off the AT at about 2PM today and walked into Hot Springs, NC. So far, I've done 273 miles in 23 days of hiking and I feel great. No knee, foot, or back problems. In fact I feel better than I've felt in 20 years. It's a gorgeous Fall day here and I plan on taking a zero day tomorrow, enjoying the hospitality of Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. Thanks to everyone for your love and support.

Zen Pig and Laree at Standing Bear

2008-11-08T13:35:00.000-08:00

Many thanks to Harry for bringing the goods out to Standing Bear. A Mamacita's Veggie Mama, some fresh fruit, and a Grande Iced Coffee did the trick. Rocketed me to the top of Snowbird.

Crossing the Pigeon River on Wed., Nov. 5

2008-11-06T08:21:00.000-08:00

Another milestone for northbounders is crossing the Pigeon River, signaling official exit of GSMNP to the north. I passed under the roar of I-40 and up the hill to Standing Bear Farm for an overnighter. The weather is still awesome. Go Obama!

Mt. Cammerer Tower, GSMNP, 11/5

2008-11-06T07:51:00.001-08:00

Yesterday I took the side trail up to the Mt. Cammerer Tower, a circa 1930s fire watch perched on a cliff several thousand feet above Davenport Gap. I can see why they chose this spot because you can see so much of the northern Smokies and surrounding areas. Enjoy the vid even if it's a bit long.

Another Incredible View

2008-11-06T07:32:00.000-08:00

What can I say? I guess there's a reason why GSMNP is the most visited park in the US. The northern half is my favorite, with the sharp cliffs and evergreen forests.

Charlie's Bunion

2008-11-06T07:09:00.000-08:00

This curious rock outcropping is a famous spot on the AT and why not? The view is incredible--looks more like something from out west. But the name...I'm sure the Cherokee had something a little more dignified :)

The End of a Perfect Day

2008-11-06T06:47:00.000-08:00

I paused after making the uphill pull north out of Newfound Gap to catch the last fires of a Smokies sunset. With the days growing shorter, the only way I could do a 21 mile day is to hike after dark with my headlamp. Not the ideal situation but you do whatcha gotta do. Tuesday was so awesome, going from Derrick's Knob shelter to Icewater Springs. I went up the Clingman's Dome tower to get the big view and saw so much plant and animal diversity. Saw my first bear and deer. The best feeling was leaving Newfound Gap about an hour before sunset. The place was full of tourists desperately trying to capture a little piece of this awesome beauty to take home with them. I felt so free walking up the hill with everything I needed on my back, going to disappear into the Smokies.

Passing The 200 Mile Mark on Nov 3

2008-11-06T06:16:00.000-08:00

Monday was a big day for me: I crossed the halfway point in the Smokies by climbing Clingman's Dome (6642'), hiked my first 20-mile plus day, and crossed the 200 mile mark of my hike at this spot. I am pleasantly surprised at how well my body has adapted to hiking, especially considering I'm carrying a pretty heavy pack with extra food and winter clothes for the cold.

zenpig meets Laree @ Green Corner Rd today....

2008-11-06T06:02:00.000-08:00

Hey it's zenpig here for a quick note: I'm driving out to where the AT crosses I-40 about an hour from Asheville to bring Laree a few supplies, some Mamacita's veggie mama burrito, and some company for a few hours. Working tonight at the Grove Park Inn. I had to cancel my three day trip with LA because of a new job at the hotel starting this weekend. Not something I can really get out of to go hiking for a few days unfortunately.

I'll be trying to encourage Larry to continue a few more days past Hot Springs to Erwin TN, since he is essentially quite a few days ahead of schedule. The weather looks like it is not going to be quite as favorable next week, but it's still great out on the AT in any weather! What an experience. Go Laree!

South Entrance Great Smoky Mountain Natl Park, Sat Nov. 1

2008-11-05T18:38:00.000-08:00

With the warmer weather returning, my anxiety about hiking into the Smokies was replaced with eager excitement. I've heard so much about the park but never really seen it except on a couple drive-throughs. These are the times that make the tough parts of backpacking worthwhile.

Crossing Fontana Dam

2008-11-05T18:01:00.000-08:00

The AT goes across Fontana Dam at its southern entry to Great Smoky Mountain Natl Park. Fontana Dam is huge--a very impressive sight. And the weather on Sunday was just awesome fpr starting my hike into the Smokies. Looks like Indian Summer is back for a while.

Fontana Hilton

2008-11-05T17:28:00.000-08:00

Ah, the A.T. This shelter probably is the Hilton by typical shelter standards. The best part is the setting on Fontana Lake.

My nemesis

2008-10-31T18:37:00.000-07:00

Don't know how well they show up in this video. My biggest challenge for steady footing hasn't been rocks, ice, roots, or leaves. But squirrels like 'em. Little bastards. Not the squirrels.

What month is it?

2008-10-31T18:31:00.000-07:00

Oct 30th. BRRRR! I wasn't really counting on this.

Inside the NOC

2008-10-31T18:23:00.000-07:00

For any of you interested in what the accommodations at the NOC motel are like, here's the inside scoop. Not too shabby but kinda overpriced.

Bryson City

2008-10-31T18:16:00.000-07:00

The nearest town to the Nantahala Outdoor Center is Bryson City, about 14 miles away. It's a good spot for resupply and has a cute little downtown with shops, a train, restaurants, and various tourist distractions.

Freezin on Cheoah Bald

2008-10-31T18:04:00.000-07:00

Boy oh boy! It was a tough climb up this steep, rocky, icy bald. I can't believe I was sweating profusely in GA a couple weeks ago. The icy conditions mad for slow going yesterday (10.30) but I still managed to crank out 15 miles. I'm about where I need to be distance-wise.

Thanks to all my Peeps

2008-10-31T15:10:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to say thanks to all my friends who have been following my hike and providing encouragement. Shout out to Atlantic Beach, Asheville, Norton MASS, Houston TX, Orlando, Kailua HI, Maui, and Jah! Special thanks to Harry-O for ground support and Patty Sev for minding the home fires.

I'm at The Fontana Resort 10/31

2008-10-31T13:10:00.000-07:00

Got to Fontana Dam today around noon and checked into the Fontana Resort overnight. It's a beautiful spot right at the foot of the Smokies. This isn't exactly what I would call roughing it.

On Top of Wayah Bald

2008-10-28T11:15:00.000-07:00

After a long day of hiking, I persuaded a tourist to snap a pic of me atop the Wayah Bald observation tower. Hiking is good.

Tellico Gap

2008-10-28T11:11:00.000-07:00

In this kind of cold, hiking burns up an incredible amount of human fuel. It's the first day I've experienced the "hiker hunger". But no wonder: it's 30 degrees and I'm doing 16 miles today.

Nanatahala Outdoor Center

2008-10-28T11:08:00.000-07:00

Brrr...can't believe it's winter already. It's Tues 10/28 and I'm current: took this video this morning. I decided to get off the trail for a day to rest, but also to miss the winter weather advisory since I'm not really geared for it. The NOC is kinda deserted this time of year but it's still an oasis on the AT. I hiked 16 tough miles in the cold yesterday to get here. Yay.

The Jump Off

2008-10-28T11:05:00.000-07:00

This spot mark the start of the steep decent into Nantahala Gorge, about 2500' over 4 miles. Even though it's not as taxing as the uphills, the steep downs are much harder on my knees. I have to go slow or else... But the views just keep getting better. The Nantahala National Forest is some of the best in the east.

Wayah Bald Shelter

2008-10-28T11:00:00.000-07:00

Thank God for these shelters. It was really chilly on Sunday night--had to set my tent up inside the shelter to stay warm.

Wayah Bald

2008-10-28T10:58:00.000-07:00

By Sunday evening I'd reached Wayah Bald for the awesome 360 view. This AT stop is also serviced by a road, making it popular with tourists. And why not?

Hawk flying at Siler's Bald

2008-10-28T10:54:00.000-07:00

Sunday (10/26) was gorgeous. I stopped for lunch at Siler's Bald (I was actually there I later realized, I just took a different trail). The sun felt warm and I caught this hawk circling overhead. I feel better hiking now: have been doing 12-13 miles a day on average, slightly better than I'd hoped. And the terrain keeps getting bigger and steeper.

Waterfall at Winding Stair Gap

2008-10-28T10:51:00.000-07:00

The drenching rains on Friday made hiking a nightmare, but it sure was blessed relief for this drought-starved area. So good to see water flowing. Scarcity of water has been the biggest challenge of the hike.

Albert Mtn Firetower

2008-10-28T10:48:00.000-07:00

What a beastly climb! Anybody who's hiked the AT knows about the dreaded souther approach to Albert Mtn. That last 1/4 mile seems straight up with stairs and rocks (and my 50+ lb. pack full of wet clothes and 5 days food). But the payoff is tremendous. Here you get the 360 view from about 5200'.
And such visibility too.

The Storm Passes

2008-10-28T10:45:00.000-07:00

Just as quickly and threateningly as the bad weather moved in, the next day cold, dry air came in from the NW. Thank God. Friday was really a hard day. But every day is different up here.

THIS REALLY SUCKS

2008-10-28T10:42:00.000-07:00

You get the idea. Rain and cold all day. Every hiker's nightmare. Both me and my stuff got so wet I had to make an unscheduled stop to regroup.

The Hiawassee Inn, Ron and Co.

2008-10-28T10:39:00.000-07:00

Had a great stay at the Hiawassee Inn. Ron and his crew took great care of me: did my laundry, let me borrow the van for dining and shopping, and took me back to the trail. Here we see Ron, his mom (age 88!)and a couple guests enjoying a late afternoon cookout and socializing. Ah, life in these trail towns looks sweet and simple.

Muskrat Creek Shelter, my first stop in NC

2008-10-28T10:36:00.000-07:00

Brrrrrr.... This video gives you the idea: cold stuff coming in. Fortunately, with some decent gear and camping skills, I've been able to be realtively comfortable even as the weather turns.

Crossing into my 2nd state

2008-10-28T10:33:00.002-07:00

Just as I crossed the NC-GA border, things seemed to change. The terrain gets steeper, the trail more rocky, and there's a chill in the air. I think Indian Summer is gone for '08.

Crossing into my 2nd state

2008-10-28T10:33:00.001-07:00

Hiawassee

2008-10-28T10:29:00.000-07:00

Walking around the little trail town of Hiawassee, GA. Good place for a rest stop and to regroup.

Vista of Hiawassee GA

2008-10-28T10:26:00.000-07:00

Stopped at this vista point on Oct 21st before heading down to Dick's Creek Gap at the end of my first week of hiking. It pays to take time to navigate these little detours.

Passing the 100 mile mark

2008-10-26T05:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, I passed the 100 mile mark on the AT somewhere north of Albert Mountain. Still have a way to go, but it's the farthest I've ever walked. Feet, knees, legs, feeling okay so far (knock on wood).

Hiking the AT with Thich Nhat Hahn

2008-10-26T05:33:00.000-07:00

When planning for this hike, keeping pack weight down was a big consideration. I wanted to bring something to read, but needed something small yet engaging. On a hunch, I chose For a Future to Be Possible by Thich Nhat Hahn. The Power must have directed me, because this tiny book would be worth 10 lbs. of packweight. The foreward begins with this poem:

"The Road is Your Footsteps"

Wanderer, the road is your
footsteps, nothing else;
wanderer, there is no path,
you lay down a path in walking.

In walking, you lay down a path
and when turning around
you'll see the road you'll
never step on again.
Wanderer, path there is none,
only tracks on the ocean foam.

Antonio Machado

Crossing the NC-GA Border

2008-10-25T16:07:00.000-07:00

On Thursday afternoon I passed this small sign indicating that I'd hiked my way through one state and into North Carolina (about mi 76). Just as I crossed the border the weather seemed to be changing too--goodbye to Indian summer, here comes some cold stuff.

Franklin NC

2008-10-25T15:50:00.000-07:00

After getting hammered with wind, rain, cold, and fog over the past few days, I decided to make an unplanned detour to Franklin, NC to regroup. My stuff is still damp and filthy so I hope to get cleaned up and repacked for the next section to the Nantahala Outdoor Center. The weather today was beautiful--clear and cool. One of those perfect Fall days, but there's some cold stuff on the horizon. Probably down in the low 20s Mon and Tues. BRRR...What has this Florida boy gotten hisself into?!

Tray Mtn Shelter

2008-10-22T13:36:00.000-07:00

The end of my 6th day winds up on top of Tray Mtn at an AT shelter. It's a beautiful spot but at 4233' was REALLY cold. Had a nice dinner of polenta with garlic, onion, and sun-dried tomatoes garnished with cheese sauce. Not bad for roughing it. There's even WATER at the shelter spring.

View from Rocky Mtn back to GA Plains

2008-10-22T13:31:00.000-07:00

Whew! That was a steep one. But at least I made it up without stopping, a mile and a half of up in less than an hour. That's good for me. But what a reward! The skies are so clear you can see the curve of the earth.

Unicoi Gap

2008-10-22T13:26:00.000-07:00

55mi into my hike, pausing on morning of day6 before the big uphill climb out of Unicoi. It will be my first 1000' climb--YIKES! Planned a short day today because of the extreme elevation change, 4500' total. Hold on knees.

Camping at Blue Mtn.

2008-10-22T09:17:00.000-07:00

This is the first night I built a fire. It's been so cold, most nights I'm in my sleeping bag by 7 or 8 and aslep by 9PM. I figured that on Sunday I deserved a treat. Nothing like cooking by the fire, listening to a little Joni Mitchell's "Woodstock" (sorry purists, I did bring my Nano), and looking at the stars. This whole day was nearly perfect, such beautiful hiking reminded me of my youth. Thank you God-Buddah-Universe!

Low Gap Shelter

2008-10-22T09:13:00.000-07:00

Stopped for a lunch break at the Low Gap shelter at approx mi 40 on the AT. I was pleasantly surprised at how clean and well-maintained the shelter is. Part of my discipline hiking, especially early on, is to make frequent stops and make sure that I eat and drink plenty. What a nice spot.

Geez I'm Thirsty!

2008-10-22T09:09:00.000-07:00

Thank you trail angels for this gift of H20 you brought to us.

Tesnatee Gap

2008-10-22T08:57:00.000-07:00

Hiked out of Neels Gap about 5 mi to a lovely campsite at Bag's Creek Gap. The only drawback once again was lack of water. The next morning (Day 5) rewarded me with this awesome view.

more Walasi-Yi at Neel's Gap

2008-10-22T08:49:00.000-07:00

A fine Fall day with a crowd of leaf-peepers at Neel's Gap. As nice as the resupply stop is, it's really distracting with all the activity. I ended up staying too long and still forgot a couple things. Didn't sesume hiking until 3:30 in the afternoon with a steep up leading out of Neels Gap.